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Pebble on the Tongue: A Sweet, One-of-a-Kind, Byway

April 30, 2025 Leave a Comment

Along the lower reaches of the Congo River, in what was once called the Kingdom of the Kongo, lie tracts of sugar cane and a hundred-year-old factory that tickles the sweet tooth of central Africa.  But it is not the cane fields or the sugar plant or the rum it conjures that so impressed me at my visit years ago.  While some places might smooth the way of the traveler with concrete or tarmac, or more modestly with gravel, the Kwilu-Ngongo sugar refiners pave their roads with molasses, the leftovers after the sugar sacks, the libations and the dainty sugar cubes are all hauled away.

Large cash crop plantations are a fact of post-colonial economies, especially in the Global South. The Kwilu-Ngongo cane sugar operation has a majority stake holder in Belgium. The sugar refinery is surrounded by a sea of cane fields requiring an extensive road network to service the enterprise. The clever use of molasses to surface those roads, especially during dry season, is now being tested in India and Costa Rica, among other places. A tributary of the Congo River meanders through the lush countryside.   photo credit: Kwilu-Ngongo refiners  

Now, there’s a sweet ‘vaya con dios’ unrivaled by anyplace I’ve ever had the great good fortune to visit.  It can be no happenstance that a cherished daughter was born to our family just a stone’s throw from that sweet, singular byway.  

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Written by Jonathan Larson

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