• Skip to main content

Traipse

To walk or tramp about; to gad, wander. < Old French - trapasser (to trespass).

  • About
  • Blog
  • Explore
  • Subscribe

Search Traipse

Asia Highway #1:  A Truth Beyond Bloodletting

July 11, 2023 5 Comments

The Pan-American Highway can still lay claim to being the longest road on the planet  (see earlier blog piece).  But Asia Highway #1 running from Istanbul to Tokyo (12,774 mi./20,557 kms.) has no rival for the vast landforms, the spectacle and depth of human story it gathers on a single strand.  Unlikely sinew that spans half the globe, it connects ethnicities, ecologies, civilizations, and world views that are more often than not at bitter odds.  And yet the wild truth it whispers, (that some fragile thread makes us all kin) however dusty, pot-holed or neglected the road may appear, will bring you to your knees to kiss its cracked, gritty pavement.  It achieves a staggering feat.

The midpoint of Asia Highway #1 is visible by a slight notch south of China, the approximate location of Manipur.  The author has traveled the full length of the highway west of that notch, chronicled in earlier blog posts, ‘Mother of All Road Trips’.  photo/map credit: Erwin1990

Bisect this wandering ribbon of road (calling it a ‘highway’ sometimes seems like flattery) and its midpoint would bring you to a most intriguing and remote spot: the once princely state of Manipur (‘Bejeweled Stronghold’).  At my last visit to India’s far northeast corner I could only look down from adjoining ridges into this pocket valley and its gallery of hills normally beyond limits for foreign travelers.  But a day later came news that these controls would be lifted for a one-time, 24-hour period at the visit of an Indian dignitary.  In the company of friends, I raced to the border and spent a memorable day and night exploring terra incognita – Imphal (the capital city), Lake Loktak, a hydroelectric dam, a World War II museum, and conversations on a university campus.  My journal entry on return was brimming with all we had seen and heard in this guarded mountain valley.

For the cognoscenti, Manipur is known for its school of classical Indian dance, as the home of polo, for heirloom-worthy handicrafts, and as a place where Japanese advance into India during WWII was halted.  As remarkable are the floating islands (‘phumdi’) on Lake Loktak where thousands of fisher folk have permanent dwellings on great mats of natural vegetation that drift over the southeast corner of the lake.  But, to its sorrow, Manipur is known also for unremitting ethnic conflict that has long pitted the Meitei valley communities against the Kuki, Naga and other tribes who inhabit the encircling hills.

For two months, that smoldering conflict has burst into open flame as ethnic hatred has overturned public order with arson, mob violence, and now, bodies lying in the streets, sending tens of thousands fleeing to relief camps for protection.  Over the cities, towns and villages, there hang plumes of smoke and Asia Highway #1 has become a gauntlet of suffering.  Even more pitiful, public authorities seem unable to rein in the violence as enmities harden and trust evaporates.

But in the headlines and reporting that has come from this cauldron, one small feature of the story has been all but overlooked.  According to one account a clutch of Meitei women, unable to bear what was befalling nearby tribal families, formed a circle of conscience around their neighbors, facing off those with cudgels, guns and firebrands, as though to say that Asia Highway #1 had somehow crept into their moral imagination and that its silent appeal might yet be heeded.

Sharmila Irom, a Manipuri Meitei and follower of Gandhi, in 2000 embarked on a fast in protest at Indian military abuses.  At age 28, she had witnessed the killing of ten innocent civilians at a bus stop.  Force-fed for 16 years, she was confined in a military facility even as her renown spread across India and the world as the Iron Lady of Manipur.  Amnesty International named her a ‘prisoner of conscience’.  A book, Burning Bright (Penguin, IN, 2009) chronicles her witness and aspirations.  Photo credit: Zuhairale

If the titular leaders of that Bejeweled Stronghold are unable to bridge the divide between parties to this bloodshed, they could hardly do better than to summon to the table the women who defended their neighbors at risk to themselves, and those whose homes and lives were spared as a result.  Let them take each other by the hand.  Let their bonds be the basis of a peace inviting all who live along that stretch of Asia Highway #1 to the promise of a ribbon of road that girdles – and holds together – half the earth.

Enter your email to be notified when Jonathan has published something new! It's free and you may unsubscribe at any time.

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.

Written by Jonathan Larson

Previous

Pebble on the Tongue: Idle Chatter Over An Iris

More from India

Cemetery Poetry: The Place Where They Sleep

Next

Monuments to Love: the ‘Taj’

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Sylvia Dannelley-Mccree says

    July 11, 2023 at 8:14 am

    Very interesting!!

    Reply
    • Jonathan Larson says

      July 11, 2023 at 12:21 pm

      Hi, Sylvia! I have such loyal readers who do not mind being dragged to all these improbable corners of the world to hear tales that stretch credulity! Thanks for hanging on so doggedly!

      Reply
  2. Ronald Mathies says

    July 11, 2023 at 9:48 am

    Fascinating!! You have an eye for exploration and the words to make them come alive and enchant! Go well, and keep writing.

    Reply
    • Jonathan Larson says

      July 11, 2023 at 11:12 am

      Hello, Ron! Good of you to write! If ever I make a return visit to Manipur, I would love to hear from the fishing communities floating on the lake talking about their view of the dry-land world. Today they are surrounded by the serene surface of the lake, but in the distance they see the smoke rise from lakeside towns and cities knowing that their country is in the grip of a suffering that has not touched them. This feels like a microcosm of the world – a moral dissonance for all who live on those ‘floating islands’ of peace but cannot escape awareness of the surrounding agonies.

      Reply
  3. Gann Herman says

    July 11, 2023 at 3:50 pm

    wow, Jonathan–I think of myself as someone who keeps up with news pretty well, but I hadn’t heard of this conflict. Masaai women, Liberian women, and now Manipuri Meitei women–all peacemakers whose courage and determination deserve our gratitude. Thanks for telling this story!

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Subscribe for Updates

Enter your email to be notified when Jonathan has published something new! It's free and you may unsubscribe at any time.

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.

Copyright © 2025 Jonathan Larson · All Rights Reserved · Website by Tomatillo Design

Subscribe to Traipse

Enter your email to be notified when Jonathan has published something new! It's free and you may unsubscribe at any time.

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.