You could do worse than to tiptoe into Michigan by the back door of the Upper Penninsula (UP), afloat as it is in a lake-world gift of ancient glaciers. So near is the time of the Ojibwa and Menominee that the call of a wild north – the loons, the deer and rush of streams […]
The CIS Waiting Room: Where a Light Shines
The CIS Waiting Room: Where a Light Shines
Some time ago, my friendship with a lovely Vietnamese family brought me to the Citizenship and Immigration Service (CIS) offices in Atlanta. They came hoping that an interview would finally clinch their status as citizens after a harrowing story that involved war, flight in a flimsy boat, camp life in a detention facility in Hong […]
Pebble on the Tongue: Always a Backstory
Pebble on the Tongue: Always a Backstory
If traipsing teaches nothing more, it beckons the traveler to wait for a backstory (apologies, Derrida!) in every encounter or first impression. Consider a haiku by the Japanese master, ‘Issa’, d. 1828 after a life of misfortunes. So hospitably waving at the entrance gate the willow tree. – trans. H. Henderson It paints a brush-and-ink […]
Quiet Pride: Power of a Cherokee Medicine Pouch
Quiet Pride: Power of a Cherokee Medicine Pouch
She calls herself Trish, though, on reflection, that may well have been a gesture toward drowsy travelers in the Florida motel where she tidies up the breakfast counter and replenishes coffee urns. She moves among the tables deftly clearing away clutter and resetting furniture. As the room falls silent, she asks us, the last of […]
Night Manager: Burger Joint at the Corner of Club and Guess
Night Manager: Burger Joint at the Corner of Club and Guess
A brake job you can no longer ignore might well take you to a part of town that is otherwise drive-through country. Just so, the New Year has led me at the crack of dawn to a garage beside a once trendy mall, now wintered by the caprice of fashion and market. I dropped off […]
Pebble on the Tongue*: A Lyric Pause to Recollect
Pebble on the Tongue*: A Lyric Pause to Recollect
Now and again it is cleansing for a writer to reckon frankly with his or her craft. A few lines from Edna St. Vincent Millay (1939) will serve my purpose well: Song II For you there is no song, Only the shaking of the voice that meant to sing, The sound of the strong voice breaking. Strange in […]
Yuletide Story: Soup Ladle as Weapon
Yuletide Story: Soup Ladle as Weapon
Among the Iroquois tribes of eastern North America a story is told about a time of internal enmity – and of stumbling into peace through the innocence of a little child. During this outbreak of bloodshed, one of the tribes laid plans to wreak vengeance on their rivals. To that end they sent out spies […]
Of First Things: Winter of Vigil, Spice and Song
Of First Things: Winter of Vigil, Spice and Song
Sift the clutter of this festival season in the northern hemisphere, and a few things do answer the test of longevity. They are elements recognized – claimed and treasured – by many of our global neighbors. At some primal level it turns out, we do yet share ancient impulses, perhaps unawares, with kin distant to […]
Pebble on the Tongue: Fork in a Brazilian Street
Pebble on the Tongue: Fork in a Brazilian Street
A BBC reporter on the street in Brazil as national elections approached, asked a clear-eyed passerby what he made of the choice before him (the incumbent, Jair Bolsonaro, or Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva). He replied: “Lula is certainly not the gateway to Paradise, but he is the way out of Hell.” The traveler does […]
Cemetery Poetry 4 – Flaming Maples in an Ozark Mountain Town
Cemetery Poetry 4 – Flaming Maples in an Ozark Mountain Town
Few rambles can rival for fall splendor the hills and deep valleys of the Ozark mountains that impose a breathless silence as the roads wind through one scene of hardwood glory after another. Humble villages and towns care little for the renown and bustle of distant cities as they bask in a spectacle that lays […]
Cemetery Poetry – 3: Laying To Rest A Shade And Its Transport
Cemetery Poetry – 3: Laying To Rest A Shade And Its Transport
The care of burial grounds is not everyone’s cup of cardamom tea. There are, after all, those stories about resident wraiths in midnight gloom. About skullduggery, bad juju and unrelieved, tortured lives. About white-knuckle secrets taken in silence to the bitter end. This is ground awash with tears, sewn with regrets enough to make even […]
Cemetery Poetry (2): Hunger for a ‘Vaya con Dios’
Cemetery Poetry (2): Hunger for a ‘Vaya con Dios’
We were standing in the street loading last bundles for a road trip when our good neighbor, Patrick, ambled over to bid us a ‘Vaya con dios’. But before bestowing his godspeed he offered an aside. It is these casual asides that turn out to be treasures of insight. He had been to a memorial […]
Cemetery Poetry: The Place Where They Sleep
Cemetery Poetry: The Place Where They Sleep
You can’t traipse very long on this mortal coil before encountering end-of-life truths. A friend in Atlanta, in the Delta Airlines master operations room on 9-11, tells with restrained panache her version of such an encounter. Driving blithely about town one day, she came to a familiar intersection marked by a traffic light (robot). Since […]
That Other Dream: The Power of An Infant in Arms
That Other Dream: The Power of An Infant in Arms
A well-known healer in West Africa was visited one day by a tortured soul haunted by a dream of turmoil in the spirit world. Having heard a full account of these experiences, the healer responded: This is the wrong dream. Now you must return home and dream a dream of goodness and harmony. Happily, this […]
Pebble On The Tongue*: The House of Tears
Pebble On The Tongue*: The House of Tears
Every language has some register of expression at which it excels. These powers tell a great deal about the social history of each community: its origins, the tenor of its story, even its physical context and values. Languages of the global South often have unusual capacities for commiseration; this from deep experience in struggles for […]
The ‘Guest Room’: Of Cowsheds and Nightjars
The ‘Guest Room’: Of Cowsheds and Nightjars
Anyone with history of traipsing on a budget will have ample impressions of the phenomenon known as the ‘guest room’: sometimes kitted out in Victorian luxury, sometimes spare as a jail cell. But always a relief. The backstory is an ancient admonition that households do well to welcome strangers since heavenly visitors arrive in just […]
Howrah Rail Station: Singular Scene of Human Drama
Howrah Rail Station: Singular Scene of Human Drama
Sitting on the banks of a sacred river beside a massive Asian city, preens in splendor a rail station without peer in the world. At the Howrah rail complex, largest in India, 600 trains pass through daily transporting one million passengers. In many countries, this single rail station would be denoted as a city unto itself. But […]
‘Special Military Operations’: A Question In the Aftermath
‘Special Military Operations’: A Question In the Aftermath
During the last gasps of apartheid South Africa the surrounding countries that had taken in refugees and exiles from the townships suffered from car bombs and commando raids by special forces who suspected that ‘runaways were likely up to no good’. Quiet towns would shake with random explosions. Or letter bombs would send bloodied and […]
Strasbourg: The Stork’s Tenderness – and Its Failure
Strasbourg: The Stork’s Tenderness – and Its Failure
Take a north-south European land journey and chances are good that your route will follow for a time the Rhine Valley whether by rail, road or river cruise. (Though, of late, the river option has suffered from low water levels that play havoc with the passage of vessels.) The cathedral spires and castles, the cities, […]
Trans-Siberian: Rivers, Steppes – the Endless Steppes – And Sometimes Sorrow
Trans-Siberian: Rivers, Steppes – the Endless Steppes – And Sometimes Sorrow
If there is a soundtrack to traveling the Trans-Siberian railroad it must surely include Ravel’s ‘Bolero’. Its relentless minor key motif captures something of an exhausting traverse; the hypnotic percussion striving against featureless steppes and forests, and just so, the sturdy settlements buttressed against weather and loneliness. Our family, intrigued as we are by epic […]
Figure for the New Year*
Figure for the New Year*
I remember riding through the steam-vintage railyards of India and seeing the hopelessly sooty signs on lamp posts and station walls: Cleanliness is next to godliness. The kind of thing Gandhi might have said at his ashram though others say John Wesley got there first. It’s a sentiment shared around the world. Stop for a […]
Salt of the Angolan Earth: Strange Grave, Brilliant Witness
Salt of the Angolan Earth: Strange Grave, Brilliant Witness
During Africa’s struggle to be free, and as Angola’s Portuguese colonial system crumbled, a scramble brought rival forces into the field fighting for advantage in the independence that was sure to follow. I ventured into that maelstrom from neighboring Congo to assess what relief supplies might be useful to the victims of that strife in […]
The Pillars of Hercules: Tangiers’ Brocade of Beauty and Struggle
The Pillars of Hercules: Tangiers’ Brocade of Beauty and Struggle
Hercules, the ancients say, in his wandering and labors came to the western limit of the Mediterranean where a great mountain, the Atlas, lay athwart his path. Not one for nuance, some say in the fury of madness, he smashed a passage through the ranges, and so appeared the straits of Gibraltar, the headlands left […]
Train to Marrakech: Epic Grandeur, Sharp Tutorial
Train to Marrakech: Epic Grandeur, Sharp Tutorial
Is there any corner of Africa quite the equal of the Barbary Coast – what the modern world knows as Morocco? Its northern shore, a rocky buttress ‘gainst the turquoise tide of the Mediterranean. Where Punic and Roman ruins sit astride the bluffs and valleys. Where the High Atlas shelter the Amazigh, the Berbers, once […]
Pebble on the Tongue: Can Filigree Strings Yet Carry Us Aloft?
Pebble on the Tongue: Can Filigree Strings Yet Carry Us Aloft?
While meandering home from the Canadian Maritimes some time ago, we stopped at the suggestion of family by the College of New Jersey in Trenton to view an art exhibit about the beauty and travail of Afghanistan. There we stumbled on the video of an extraordinary scene composed by Lida Abdul, who, exile that she […]
Pani Ram: Of Dugouts and Ferrymen
Pani Ram: Of Dugouts and Ferrymen
You will know that you have strayed from well-traveled routes when you arrive at a riverbank and there is no bridge. Since ancient times, and especially in rainy backcountry, this is an epic scene: river landings with dugouts drawn up on the strand. The figure of boat and ferryman is so central to human experience […]
Pebble on the Tongue: “If You’re Lucky …”
Pebble on the Tongue: “If You’re Lucky …”
To say that travels will move you, is a tautology, self-evident on the face. But Kate Daniels, lyricist of the gritty, personal truths of the American South has penned a line that captures the traveler’s rarest take-away, the most powerful gift of a ‘traipse’: If you’re lucky ….It will bring you to your knees. Kate […]
Pyrotechnics: There Are Fireworks, and Then There Are Fireworks
Pyrotechnics: There Are Fireworks, and Then There Are Fireworks
Say ‘fireworks’ to most any soul on the planet – child or adult – and there will follow a fountain, a vivid geyser, of story. The pyrotechnics celebrated in lore and poetry are rooted after all in spiritual struggle: their boom and flash created to drive away shades of misery and misfortune. But they end […]
Pebble on the Tongue: ‘Luckiest Woman Alive!’
Pebble on the Tongue: ‘Luckiest Woman Alive!’
Some years ago, I was dinner guest in the home of an Ethiopian woman in Winnipeg, Canada. We sat on haunches in her kitchen as she made coffee in the ceremonial way, roasting beans over open coals. The strong aroma suffused her life story. Years before, she had married for love a Muslim man back […]
Pebble on the Tongue: From the Basement of Suffering
Pebble on the Tongue: From the Basement of Suffering
Given the loss and suffering that marks these days, here is the sense of a moment recounted by Sadako Kurihara, poet of Hiroshima: In Hiroshima, in a basement, mid stench and death, a young woman goes into labor. A woman, herself moaning with pain, steps forward. “I can help with the baby. I am a […]
Omnibus: It Doesn’t Quite Mean ‘All’
Omnibus: It Doesn’t Quite Mean ‘All’
Somewhere between the jet set and the purist pilgrims who shamble along the Camino de Santiago are those who ride the ‘bus’, a shortened form of the more picturesque 19th cent. French term, ‘omnibus’. It’s that ‘omni’ part that gives pause – omni being Latin for ‘all’. Which explains a great deal about bus travel […]
The Long and Winding Road: Mythic Highway, Honeymoon Beach
The Long and Winding Road: Mythic Highway, Honeymoon Beach
Paul McCartney, so the story says, retreated alone to a farm in Scotland once where he sat at the piano gazing on the trace of a road meandering wild heather, the moors and lochs beyond – in short, his life – and penned a ballad: ‘The Long and Winding Road’. Were there a list of […]
The Die Is Cast: No Friends But the Afghan Mountains
The Die Is Cast: No Friends But the Afghan Mountains
Come September 11, 2021, by presidential decree, the last troops of a Western alliance will strike their regimental colors, stow their gear and board massive transports for rear bases in Europe, the Middle East, and North America. They leave behind razor-wire perimeters, bunkers, the tangled wreckage of warfare, frightened collaborators, and trauma as far as […]
Lion’s Den Discovery: Pushback on a Eurocentric World View
Lion’s Den Discovery: Pushback on a Eurocentric World View
On the southern fringes of the Kalahari across the interior of southern Africa stretch ranches and dryland farming in all directions. Here and there outcrops and hills break the monotony of the plain often overlooking seasonal streams and rivers. Near such a ridge, in 1924 the unlikely settlement of Taung (‘lion’s den’) was the epicenter […]
Pebble on the Tongue: Gift of the Gulag
Pebble on the Tongue: Gift of the Gulag
Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn is not known to have written much about his epic, and often painful, travels – to Kazakhstan and his years in the gulag, to Germany when exiled and made stateless by the Soviet authorities, later around the world as a celebrated Nobel laureate, and eventually back to Mother Russia. But he did write […]
In A Potato Cellar: Beneath the Sign of a Ropey Tornado
In A Potato Cellar: Beneath the Sign of a Ropey Tornado
Spring may be the season of daffodils and birdsong, but a shift in the jet stream also lifts a curtain on the annual drama of tornadoes. We once sat enthralled while listening in disbelief to the nonchalance of friends in a Tulsa, OK suburb who described the ravages of a storm that passed within hailing […]
Myanmar: The Road Beyond Mandalay
Myanmar: The Road Beyond Mandalay
Not only the road to Mandalay, but city streets the length and breadth of Myanmar stream today with protestors flashing the three-fingered salute, with flotillas of motorcycles and scooters, monks in maroon robes, even the occasional elephant. Unseen are the armies of government workers, railway staff, nurses and doctors, power plant personnel and bank tellers […]
Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia: Beware the #30 Tram
Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia: Beware the #30 Tram
Few cities in Europe can match Barcelona for its storehouse of cultural riches. The tourist industry knows it only too well, sending 30 million visitors coursing its way every year. Very nearly all of them were surrounding the famous Sagrada Familia basilica the day we arrived by train from Valencia. We’d been foresighted enough to […]
Traipse: Consolation
Traipse: Consolation
During the harrowing years of the AIDS pandemic in southern Africa, a saying was frequently heard at memorial gatherings. It went something like this: a In this sea of sorrow, we must not be strangers.
Kalahari Yuletide: A Cattlepost State of Mind
Kalahari Yuletide: A Cattlepost State of Mind
No darkness on earth can match the depth of a desert night. No firmament of stars can rival the spectacle of a desert sky. For the most part it is only the drifted face of sand and the beasts of the wild who are witness to such silent marvels. Except a small fraternity of herders […]
Minimalist Safety: Story For a Cluttered World
Minimalist Safety: Story For a Cluttered World
I traveled with a friend one day to visit a woman healer in a village at the edge of the Kalahari. She received us eagerly as we chattered about her late father, a prominent bishop whose mantle she had taken up. She set out some hand-crafted folding chairs slung with strips of cowhide of a […]
Souvenir: Wormwood and Mint in the High Atlas
Souvenir: Wormwood and Mint in the High Atlas
Make your way, as we did once, southeast from Marrakech up the Ourika Valley into the Atlas mountains of Morocco, and you could well find yourself on the second floor of a stone cottage, sipping sheeba, a hot cup of Berber hospitality. With the roar of snow melt in the background, our host explains that […]
Trekking To the Polls: Proverbial Wisdom on Leadership
Trekking To the Polls: Proverbial Wisdom on Leadership
Proverbs, often referred to as ‘deep language’, are a ready mark of traditional societies. And their absence from everyday discourse marks a shift away from ‘wisdom’ toward a knowledge, or information culture. I once heard a hacker say that creeping into a guarded digital domain is like breaking into a gothic cathedral; finding architecture replete […]
Truth-Telling in the Darkness: Grief Turned To Delirious Joy
Truth-Telling in the Darkness: Grief Turned To Delirious Joy
When we set out on travels to remote locations, I’ve made it a habit to carry in my satchel a small shortwave radio even in this age of the internet. Deep in the Himalaya, in equatorial rain forest, or the desert interiors of Africa, a small hand set with fully extended aerial has permitted access […]
Birmingham (UK) War Vet: Prayer in Burnt-Over Country
Birmingham (UK) War Vet: Prayer in Burnt-Over Country
Those who scan the faith scene of the Western world continue to write obituaries for the forlorn churches of Europe, where a handful of stubborn faithful gather on appointed days to full-throated baroque organ and sonorous liturgy. A wistful poet has named this scene ‘the threadbare brocade of a passing age.’ Some years ago I […]
Electoral College of One: the Case of Malawi
Electoral College of One: the Case of Malawi
A mail-in ballot has arrived at our address here in Durham, North Carolina. It came with little fanfare: the clack of our mailbox lid as the postman made a noontime delivery. I am aware that the ether is stormy now with quarreling about the transaction it represents. And heavy clouds forewarn of what is yet […]
Isle of Charms, Isle of Despair
Isle of Charms, Isle of Despair
I have a fascination for islands. It surfaced when this eight-year-old roamed Defoe’s ‘Robinson Crusoe’, castaway on the ‘Isle of Despair’. These penchants rise somehow from the depths of psyche, roused in me by childhood stops where island names ring like rhapsody: Hawaii, Formosa (now Taiwan), Honshu, Cebu, Penang, Java, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). Then, […]
Beneath Holiday Chandeliers: What Westphalia Offers Magnolia, Mississippi
Beneath Holiday Chandeliers: What Westphalia Offers Magnolia, Mississippi
Picture a holiday charity fundraiser under chandeliers, the well-heeled rubbing elbows midst chatter about Christmas markets in Bavaria and the beaches of Bali. My wife and I found ourselves there by some social accident last year, and, drinks in hand, worked our way to a quiet corner table where a 60-ish couple sat alee of […]
Tiger-Widows of the Sundarbans: Who Is Eating Whom?
Tiger-Widows of the Sundarbans: Who Is Eating Whom?
The river steamers of yesterday, with a blast of their whistles, would cast off hawsers from the Hooghly River docks opposite Kolkata, and drift gently with the current past the grime and smoke of an Asian city into a gloaming of the world’s largest river delta, the Sundarbans. There the waters of the sacred Ganga, […]
A Poacher’s Tears and Gratitude
A Poacher’s Tears and Gratitude
Alarming scenes are coming in from game-rich northern Botswana this week, where the carcasses of hundreds of elephants are strewn across the lush plains having perished from some mysterious cause. This is not the work of poachers – the tusks are all still intact – and there is ample water and foliage available. Early speculation […]
Two Cubs – and a Tiger Queen
Two Cubs – and a Tiger Queen
The interface of the wild and the world of human settlement is dicey territory to be sure. Whether the elephants of the Okavango, the orangutan of Sumatra or the pangolins of Asia, wild creatures everywhere face unfriendly odds. Jacquie Oberg, now of small town Minnesota, should know. Some of those creatures ended up in her […]
Du Fu: Pebble On the Tongue
Du Fu: Pebble On the Tongue
A handful of lyrical lines can whisper to the traveler – how vast is the sea of creative beauty – how deep the wistfulness of soul – how strong the yearning in our sojourn – how paltry our grasp of the great yonder – how precious to find company midst ‘silent peaks’ _____________________________ Written On […]
Contagion: A Leader Named Patience
Contagion: A Leader Named Patience
As nations flail now for want of sage, moral leaders even while stalked by ruin, it would be fair to ask where we might turn our eyes. What moorings might serve as safe harbor for the fashioning of a hereafter? What landmarks can reliably guide us though peril? While the coordinates of that location may […]
Contagion: Backyard Answers, Humble Remedies
Contagion: Backyard Answers, Humble Remedies
Trapped in the talons of trouble, our impulse may be to search the horizon in hope of deliverance, a stroke of fate that would banish threat and summon back the bluebirds. Such a pity! Since the strength to prise open the grip of suffering might well lie unrecognized just over the back fence. It was […]
Contagion: Foreign Origins, Distant Remedies
Contagion: Foreign Origins, Distant Remedies
I sat listening in the courtyard of an elderly friend in the ramshackle outskirts of a Kalahari town. He was giving his account of the origins of the HIV pandemic. It went something like this: HIV has come to our country by design of ill-willed foreigners*. We know that diseases native to this part of […]
Contagion: Resilience of the Backcountry Elders
Contagion: Resilience of the Backcountry Elders
A saintly friend who ‘squandered’ much of her life caring for the disabled in the Kalahari once described to me what the HIV/AIDS pandemic had done to her settlement. ‘We are punch-drunk with sorrow and loss,’ she said, ‘as though pummeled by a heavy-weight fighter round after punishing round.’ This nun had no interest in […]
Contagion: What Pandemic Hath Wrought
Contagion: What Pandemic Hath Wrought
As contagion stalks our planet, cities shuttered behind cordons militaires, cruise ships denied port or anchored in a sea of troubles, and hospitals ominous with taut, costumed creatures, a back story has been mass flight in search of safety. An early report estimated that nearly half of Wuhan’s 11-million population fled as the handwriting went […]
Hammarskjold: The Longest Journey of All
Hammarskjold: The Longest Journey of All
Pebble On The Tongue* “The longest journey is the journey inwards … quest for the source of (one’s) being.” Dag Hammarskjold, fr. Markings Almost 59 years ago, Dag Hammarskjold, Secretary General of the United Nations, his plane on fire, plummeted […]
Hacker Comeback: Survivor From the Streets
Hacker Comeback: Survivor From the Streets
I met John in a garret office just off Maryland Ave. in the Capitol Hill district of Washington, DC. His tired, disheveled attire might have suggested life on the street, but spritely expression and chatter hinted at something beyond that. We whiled away the time, and this is the story he told. Like many in […]
Mandela* Moment of Truth: Rite of Passage to Calling and Glory
Mandela* Moment of Truth: Rite of Passage to Calling and Glory
The treeless hills of South Africa’s Eastern Cape roll down to the Indian Ocean where they form the Wild Coast: the sea, the wind and spray pounding a rocky shore. Here and there lie pocket beaches where rivers tumble down to meet the surf. That beauty has attracted seaside resorts and casinos for the well-heeled, […]
Mother of All Roadtrips XI: Herati Hookahs and Heady History
Mother of All Roadtrips XI: Herati Hookahs and Heady History
In a class by itself as historical crossroads go, within Herat’s crumbling walls and precincts hangs a brocade of culture with few equals in the world. Where else might you find cheek by jowl a citadel of Alexander the Macedonian, records of Nestorian evangelists, tombs of Timur’s martial descendants, traces of Persian poets and philosophers, […]
Mother Of All Roadtrips – X: Majesty of Tower and Tunnel
Mother Of All Roadtrips – X: Majesty of Tower and Tunnel
National Highway 1 from Kabul to Kandahar, will bring you under the walls of the storied, but now humbled, city of Ghazni. Its ramparts once sheltered brilliant Persian poets the likes of Hakim Sanai, the ‘eyes of Sufi poetry’ and inspiration to Rumi. The memory of that elegance now in tatters, the city suffers one […]
Mother of All Roadtrips (IX) – Mirage on the Road to Kabul
Mother of All Roadtrips (IX) – Mirage on the Road to Kabul
There is a traveler’s proverb in southern Africa, “Tsela e kgopo, ga e latse nageng.’ (The crooked road will not leave you sleeping in the wild.) It applies on the road to Kabul just as readily as elsewhere. True to the proverb’s implied wisdom, the tarmac – but, gated – highway at Surobi (see previous […]
Mother of All Roadtrips (VIII) – Khyber: Rite of Passage and Prayer
Mother of All Roadtrips (VIII) – Khyber: Rite of Passage and Prayer
High in the Maluti mountains of southern Africa, there is a pass for ponies and trekkers called ‘Molimo O Nthuse’ (God help me!), the prayer of mountain travelers everywhere. Thin air, vagaries of sleet and snow, rude slopes, snake-like footpaths, solitude; all can conspire with lethal effect. Prayer is sometimes the traveler’s only recourse. Such […]
Mother Of All Roadtrips – VII: Qissa Khwani, Old Quarter Peshawar
Mother Of All Roadtrips – VII: Qissa Khwani, Old Quarter Peshawar
If you should think the city of Peshawar is just another edge-of-the-mountain town, dust-blown, tattered and gusty with bluster and intrigue, consider this: the very heart of the old quarter is called ‘Qissa Khwani’, the Storytellers’ Bazaar. Not the bazaar of carpets or of silks, not of walnuts, spices or dried fruit, not of camels, […]
Mother Of All Roadtrips (MOAR) – VI: Grand Trunk Road
Mother Of All Roadtrips (MOAR) – VI: Grand Trunk Road
On the cusp of summer monsoon, but still swirled in dust and heat, our caravan assembled in the town of Raiwind outside Lahore. Behold! a three-passenger, improvised roof-rack atop the little red VW station wagon, a small trailer with hitch, an assortment of personal and camping gear, four school-leavers, two adults, their young daughter and […]
Mother Of All Roadtrips (MOAR) – V: Darshan in the Indus Valley
Mother Of All Roadtrips (MOAR) – V: Darshan in the Indus Valley
Northeast of the power-stepping guards at the Wagah crossing (see previous post, MOAR IV) there is a telling scene about what borders born of duress can inflict on a populace. Punjab is the cradle of Sikh faith, home to the great majority of its faithful who now live in India. On a clear day, from […]
MOAR IV: Someone’s Walking – Er, Strutting – on My Grave
MOAR IV: Someone’s Walking – Er, Strutting – on My Grave
It’s ticklish business navigating a cemetery. There’s that saying, “Someone’s walking on my grave,” prompted by some chill running up the spine. Travel thoughtfully, not least the great river valleys of the world, and you find stories of near cosmic scale lying at your feet, stories that send a shiver through the soul. A traverse […]
Mother Of All Roadtrips – MOAR (III): A Long and Winding Descent
Mother Of All Roadtrips – MOAR (III): A Long and Winding Descent
The Woodstock School campus, midst wooded foothills, has commanding views of some of India’s most sacred geography. (When Pearl Buck visited she referred breathlessly to the school setting as ‘vertical real estate.’) To the south and east winds the course of the Ganga (Ganges) whose sprawling valley is the axis of Indian civilization. To the […]
The Mother Of All Road Trips (II): A Schoolboy Fantasy
The Mother Of All Road Trips (II): A Schoolboy Fantasy
Almost all epic travels begin in innocence. The prospective miseries, perils and vagaries of a journey are dwarfed by promise: of discovery, breathless tales, companionship, of besting challenges. So it was that four school-leavers from an Indian boarding school began dreaming of a Eurasian crossing in the winter of 1965. Our imaginations were aflame with […]
The Mother of All Road Trips: Beyond Route 66 (I)
The Mother of All Road Trips: Beyond Route 66 (I)
Got a fantasy road trip squirreled away in the imagination? Tiptoeing the spine of the Rockies? Tracing the shores of the Great Lakes? Driving US Route 1 the length of the Eastern Seaboard? The fantasy jaunt of the American soul would have to be a ramble down U.S. Route 66 – in a tail-finned convertible […]
Kashmir: Troubled Jewel of Central Asia
Kashmir: Troubled Jewel of Central Asia
Few places on earth can rival the exquisite beauty of Kashmir’s Dal Lake, mirror to the Himalayas of central Asia. Along its shores in morning mist, you might hear the sound of a single, unhurried oar. A shikara (watercraft) slips into view passing wordlessly on its way and then vanishes leaving only a rippling trace. […]
Traipser Rule of Thumb: One Soul Salutes Another
Traipser Rule of Thumb: One Soul Salutes Another
You cannot embark on any daily traipse for more than a few steps before engaging in a universal social ritual: the act of greeting. Customary though it be, this practice, full of possibility, possesses enormous significance whether in encounter with neighbor, stranger or even stray dog. Echoing the Hippocratic oath, the rule of thumb for […]
Helsingborg Hostel: Baltic Straits, Wedding Straits
Helsingborg Hostel: Baltic Straits, Wedding Straits
In the city of Helsingborg, a ferry ride across from Helsingor (or, ‘Elsinore’, if you’re drafting a tragedy called ‘Hamlet, Prince of Denmark’), there was once a youth hostel on the northern edge of town midst wooded grounds. It sat on a rise looking down on the city, on the straits to the Baltic Sea, […]
A City Called ‘Fair Winds’: What the Streets Are Saying
A City Called ‘Fair Winds’: What the Streets Are Saying
If, having been whisked to a secret southern metropolis and you were there set free on the streets, you’d be forgiven for believing you’d found yourself in Brussels, Vienna or Berlin. In truth you would be in the Paris of Latin America, Buenos Aires, whose name translates as ‘Fair Winds’. Famous for bumpy politics, for […]
Weirdness in the Death Zone: A Tale of the Odd-Number Sardine
Weirdness in the Death Zone: A Tale of the Odd-Number Sardine
They’re up there still. Hundreds of tents pitched in the rubble field at base camp on Everest. Climbers – some, at best bricoleurs – and their Sherpa guides wait for that window of clear days before the monsoon that offers some chance of summiting the mother of all mountains, Chomolungma, 29,035’ of rock, icefall, crevasses, […]
Saturday in Brussels: Waffles, Tintin, Godot … and Waffles
Saturday in Brussels: Waffles, Tintin, Godot … and Waffles
The city of Brussels takes itself pretty seriously. It devotes itself to the tricky business of holding together a quarrelsome bilingual country, to projects like the 28-member European Union and to the colossus known as NATO. The city bristles with all-work, no-play diplomats, soldiers, journalists and lobbyists. Whatever sunshine might be left under such dour […]
Desert Tales: When Hunter Becomes Prey*
Desert Tales: When Hunter Becomes Prey*
In the 1950s sub-Sahara Africa, still in colonial thrall, was a kind of wild west while the rest of the world restored what had been shattered by world war. The grasslands of Africa, thronged with wild life, remained in many places open range. In what was then a sleepy Chobe River village called Kasane (see […]
Desert Tales: Of Rustlers and Saving Refreshment
Desert Tales: Of Rustlers and Saving Refreshment
A close friend of mine once served as a policeman in Kalahari ranching country. As happens where cattle roam arid grazing land, rustlers find opportunity to lead away valuable critters on the hoof when no one is watching. My friend was assigned to investigate just such a case. With a contingent of fellow officers he […]
Going Deep and Wild: Ramble With a Kalahari San Traveler
Going Deep and Wild: Ramble With a Kalahari San Traveler
I stood hitchhiking across from the Kalahari Arms Hotel at a crossroads in Botswana’s ranching country. Hang around the Arms long enough and old timers will tell with glee about the goat known to wander in at drowsy midday hours to devour the bar kitty leaving only coins as a tip. Kalahari survival has its […]
Going Deep: Singing Crawdads and Lithophones
Going Deep: Singing Crawdads and Lithophones
Delia Owens, wildlife conservationist and briefly a neighbor in the Kalahari, has now written a crime novel set in coastal Carolina. ‘Where the Crawdads Sing’, the title taken from her mother’s term for the back-of-the-back-of-beyond where the wilds harbor impossible beauty and secrets, is a nod towards the music – the exquisite music – inherent […]
A House Called ‘Deliverance’
A House Called ‘Deliverance’
Our family traipse – not unlike Viking forbears who once sailed the Volga and traded wares on the Silk Road – began long ago in a Minnesota winter, with ports of call like Shanghai, Hong Kong, Penang, Rangoon and Chittagong, mostly aboard plucky freighters. In time, we came to live on the verge of the […]
The Bones: Buried – and Empowered – at the Crossroads
The Bones: Buried – and Empowered – at the Crossroads
Scattered across southern Africa, at highway intersections, as at village crossroads, an unnoticed dynamic is in play. In the dead of night, a traditional healer has crept on to the scene and buried there, in secret, the tools of a diviner’s trade: small bits of bone, shells, sundry coins, buttons and stones. In a region […]
Molepolole: Dark Beauty Below the Roofing Sheets
Molepolole: Dark Beauty Below the Roofing Sheets
From earliest times, water sources and wells have been the scene of rare encounter, of betrothal and alliance, of secrets, struggles and dreams, yes, and of slaking thirst for mortal and beast, nowhere more earnestly than in the arid interiors of the planet’s landmasses. When desert winds drive storms of dust and sand, when the […]
Mahatma and the Mariners: Tales of the Malabar Coast
Mahatma and the Mariners: Tales of the Malabar Coast
Plant yourself in the sand of the Kerala seashore, the Arabian Sea creaming at your feet, a warm westerly caressing your face. This is the Malabar coast. Spice garden of the East, fantasy of mariners drawn by the fragrance – and fortunes – of cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and clove. They came by turn from ancient […]
Sixth-Day Fellowship: Of Labor, Mischief and Mirth
Sixth-Day Fellowship: Of Labor, Mischief and Mirth
The story board of sacred writ recounts that in their beginnings, humankind and the animals were created on the same day, the sixth day (Genesis 1:24-31). This arrangement surely suggests some commonality, perhaps even fellowship, while serving also as a check on our hubris. That whatever the glories of angel-flight inspiration and achievement, we can […]
Christmas Carol From A Kingston ‘Long-Drop’
Christmas Carol From A Kingston ‘Long-Drop’
Beyond the Jamaica cruise stops of Negril, Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, there is an island world of richest stories, stories of suffering and dark struggle but told with lyric heart. Who hasn’t danced to the reggae music of Bob Marley and the Wailers or been schooled by their torchy ballads of yearning for freedom […]
Pitseng: Jetlag in a Kalahari Hamlet
Pitseng: Jetlag in a Kalahari Hamlet
Consider the French word, dépaysé. It aptly describes travelers who after long east-west travels clamber off holiday jets in the likes of Hawaii, the Costa del Sol, Capetown or Baku. The French term means literally ‘un-countried’. Otherwise, in English, it can mean ‘dazed’ or ‘bewildered’. For moderns accustomed to the reach of transcontinental jets, it […]
Fireside Vision at the Back-of-Beyond
Fireside Vision at the Back-of-Beyond
The Trans-Kalahari highway leads west northwest out of Lobatse one of Botswana’s earliest western-style towns. (It contained at independence in 1966 the only stretch of tarred road in a country larger than France.) Once past Kanye, the land lies wide and open toward the ‘big dry’, the Kalahari, deepest overlay of sand on the planet. […]
Side Street in Phnom Penh (II): Of Nightmares and ‘Speakeasy’
Side Street in Phnom Penh (II): Of Nightmares and ‘Speakeasy’
Faithful rule-of-thumb in travels: the richest stories lie in the side streets, the smoky recesses of courtyards and tea stalls. My Sunday meander down an alley in Phnom Penh ran true to form. Having heard the account of a young Khmer musician’s love of a grandfather (see previous post), I waited in a church anteroom […]
Side Street in Phnom Penh: Music From a Grandfather’s War Wounds
Side Street in Phnom Penh: Music From a Grandfather’s War Wounds
On a side street in downtown Phnom Penh, Cambodia, you’ll find a homely little Anglican church. If you saunter by of a Sunday, as I did not long ago, you might notice that several people linger on the premises after morning services. It was enough, at my visit, to draw me in, on the chance […]
What Terror From the Deep Can Leave Behind (II) Night Bus to Mandalay – and to a Tsunami Story
What Terror From the Deep Can Leave Behind (II) Night Bus to Mandalay – and to a Tsunami Story
There is hardly any place name, with the possible exception of ‘Shangri-La’, that is quite so evocative as ‘Mandalay’. Nearly all of its associations for the West are Kipling-esque ‘images of oriental kingdoms and tropical splendor’*. Dozens of book titles, songs and hotel names have ridden the crest of those images to fame and riches. […]
Tsunami: What Terror From the Deep Can Leave Behind. (I)
Tsunami: What Terror From the Deep Can Leave Behind. (I)
In these last hours, video has captured a tsunami rolling ashore in the town of Palu, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Ten-foot waves can be seen in the background sweeping structures, palm trees and debris before them. The death toll, sure to rise, stands at 830. The images recalled what the world observed in horror on December 26, […]
Temples to Tea, Shrines for the Traveler
Temples to Tea, Shrines for the Traveler
Camelia sinensis: the wind beneath the traveler’s wings. ‘Cha’, ‘sah’, ‘chay’. Known to the West as ‘tea’. Across Asia and now the planet, this infusion of legend and mystery is on offer, be it in the exquisite tea houses of Kyoto and Dushanbe or in the humblest roadside shelters. Whatever its shrine, tea commands a […]
Hole-In-The-Day: Manoomin, Treaty Rights and Deferred Harvest
Hole-In-The-Day: Manoomin, Treaty Rights and Deferred Harvest
Come November 22nd this year, discriminating families at Thanksgiving tables will sit up – unawares – to turkey stuffed with the makings of an epic and delectable tale. It is the tale of ‘manoomin’, the sacred wild rice that grows across northern Wisconsin, Minnesota, and the prairie provinces of Canada. Stand on the cat-tail fringes […]
Makgadikgadi: Soul Depths On A Salt Flat
Makgadikgadi: Soul Depths On A Salt Flat
If the Okavango Delta resembles a primordial Eden, then the neighboring Makgadikgadi Pans may be a picture of a climate-changed future, at least for the drought-prone swatches of the earth. Larger than the entire state of Connecticut, a baked crust of white clay stretches virtually without a single landmark, one of the largest salt flats […]
Safari To Dislocation – And Time Immemorial
Safari To Dislocation – And Time Immemorial
Safari (meaning ‘visit’ or ‘trip’ in Ki-swahili) has been a staple of Western travelers since Victorian times when outsiders with prodigious ‘kit’ came on tour to the bush country of Africa’s wild interior. Teddy Roosevelt figures high on the list of notables who tried their luck on the savannah. The tally of trophies taken in […]
Manhandled By Africa’s Beauty: The Smoke That Thunders*
Manhandled By Africa’s Beauty: The Smoke That Thunders*
Beauty in these wild places of Africa comes in two guises. There’s the filigree of a camelthorn tree against the dawn. Or in the rainforest the old-growth trees holding up in reverence a canopy that suffuses the underlay in green light. The only sounds: the rapping of rain from a shower striking the giant leaves […]